The Hobbyist's Machine Shop

 

I have been putting time into installing a Digital Read Out (DRO) for my X3 mill. These are a couple of spy photos of the installation. What you see here is the completed Y axis scale installation and the nearly finished X axis scale. I am using the mill to make the mounting brackets. That is why you see some dross in the pictures and the vice on top.

I am currently machining a bracket for the X axis carriage mount.Then I have an idea how to mount a cover over the X Scale. That is the reason for the ears at each end. A slightly shorter scale could be used here for the X axis but the longer length is not a problem. I am also noodling out how to mount the Z axis scale.

There will be a full report on this installation and how the DRO operates coming up soon. Lots of action photos on the installation and operation.

I spent the weekend deciding weather (sic) to spend time in my 35 degree workshop or my 72 degree home office. (Pun intended). You can probably correctly guess the office won the fair share of the coin tosses.

I can warm up the garage with electric heaters and make it a somewhat enjoyable work space at approximately 62 degrees air temperature. However, I am working on installing a very precise digital readout (DRO) on my big mill and I would like the temperatures to be a bit more stable. I can get the air to 62 but it takes awhile for the big chunk of cast iron and steel (of which the machine is made) to get up to temperature.

I have the non critical work done but the fine tuning needs a few days at a bit warmer temperature. It is all in the joy of trying to maintain precision in a changing environment like an unconditioned garage shop. Open the garage door in winter conditions and “whoosh”, instantly floods in 27 degree air.

I am jealous of the climate controlled workshops of some home machinists. Actually the temperature is not a problem when it stays constant. It is the warming and cooling that is the problem. Starting a series of milling operations at 40 degrees and finish at 75, the dimension reference (datum) will change. It changes anyway because the part being milled gets hot while cutting, but it is nice to reduce some of the variables. Home shop projects usually don’t demand super tight control.

The DRO PROS project will have a full product report in The Hobbyist Machine Shop is a few weeks. Watch for it. (Tell ‘em Dan’l sent ya!)

The office work consisted of upgrading two of my computers. I won’t spend much time on computer jargon here in THMS Blog. I installed Windows 7 on both machines. One was a clean install of 64bit Windows 7 Ultimate and the second, on my main office computer was an upgrade from 64 bit Vista Ultimate to 64 bit Windows 7 Ultimate. Both installs went flawlessly but the update from Vista took the longest time.

The coolest thing that is worth mentioning here in a shop blog is Windows 7 with the right processor in the computer can run (for free) a virtual 32 bit Windows XP Pro machine. In computer geek talk that’s called a virtual machine or VM for short. So while running Windows 7, I can open a window and be running a program in XP like it was in its own machine. This is great for running an old 32 bit program that needs the XP environment.

I won’t use it for MACH3, but I do have MACH3 installed in the VM for testing. I think there is a timing problem for the pulses, but MACH3 installed without a complaint, even the required re-boot went fine. I’ll test it some more. However, for mission critical CNC machine timing control, I’ll stick with XP running separate and alone in a partition (requiring a reboot) rather than a virtual machine. So running MACH3 in a VM is NOT RECOMMENDED for actual machine control.

What I did install was the complete Adobe Video Suite 1.5 on the XP/VM on the office computer. I now have all the components of that old XP based product functional again. Video Suite 1.5 is what I use for my video productions. Most all 32 bit programs run on 64 bit machines just fine, but some older software does need the more DOS like environment of Windows XP. Adobe “After Effects” and the Adobe “DVD Creator 1.5” would not run in Vista. In the XP/VM installation, everything is performing just fine.

You may have a favorite program like AutoCAD LT2006 (I do) that won’t run in Vista or WIN7. That’s next for my XP/VM and I am sure I will be thrilled!

Thanks’ Bill.

 

I think the Taig micro lathe is far often overlooked as a viable lathe for the small parts hobbyist. It is an excellent choice for the miniature and small size model maker. The only thing considered missing by big lathe pundits is the powered feed and thread making ability.

The factory power feed has recently been added as an option. For many years hobbyists have added their own feeds – motor powered, complex gear powered and CNC versions. I have not seen the Taig powered carriage feed but assume it is motor driven. I have requested information from Taig Tools about the power feed and will publish it here. Update! –  Here is the link to the power feed — http://www.taigmachines.com/Power_Feed.php

I presently (without seeing or using one) consider the power feed a luxury item and probably more work to use than just making small parts by hand. The power feed would be nice if a part being made was a long shaft. My hope is that there will be an easy option to use or not use the power feed.

The threading is another issue. Making small parts I almost never use single point threading such as a lathe produces. I use a tap and/or die which is much easier and accurate on small diameters. Cutting threads for a large diameter, inside and outside is another matter. That is a lathe project or a very good CNC milling operation. The stock Taig micro lathe is not capable of doing large threads. Note I said stock.

The best solution is a larger geared lathe. That is why I offer the larger lathes in my store. I reserve the use of the Taig micro lathe for micro parts. Within its limitations it is a very good machine. It is very simple to use and does not need to be pushed beyond its design limits. It is very easy to customize with no fear of damaging a larger more expensive tool.

The aluminum construction is not a problem considering it is a micro lathe and not intended for years of factory floor hogging operation. The Taig spindle is the heart of the machine. I have been running several Taig spindles for hundreds of hours each at over 10,000 rpm and with extreme side loads of CNC machining and routing. They now run better than new as a few hours of run-in reduces bearing drag without inducing run-out. The spindles do not get warm at 10,000 rpm after run-in.

I don’t recommend getting emotional about your brand of machine tools. Brand name loyalty does not need to become a cult although I know some folks are proud that they have the complete X-brand machine shop. In the world today some brand name products are serious pieces of junk. I always look at what will be the best investment for long term ownership under the conditions it will be used. Brand name recognition has been prostituted by mass consumer marketing. I think of it like sports teams. Some of the fiercest loyalty is for the worst teams.

Taig manufactures good tools, no junk. I think the micro mill is the best of their products but the lathe should not be disregarded. The lathe has limitations as do all small machine tools. The price is good. It is almost always purchased new. I don’t see many old ones for sale. The owners that have one, usually keep it.

So you may have a favorite machine brand but I suggest you consider Taig for your list of quality micro machine tools.

I haven’t written here for some time. I have been spending a lot of time on the HB2 making stuff from wood that just didn’t seem appropriate for posting here on the machine shop blog. However, it is machine work when you come right down to it. It just isn’t a METAL machine shop project; picky, picky.

Yes!! I have posted SOME of the wood projects so the choice isn’t an absolute.

I have started to build up a materials order sheet for making a small model airplane diesel engine. It looks like a fun project and totally within my capabilities. I may have to push a little into some inside threading work that I have not done but that doesn’t stand out as a problem. There will also be some machining of clear plastic required for the fuel tank. I am wondering how that will go. That is also new to me.

I have been kicking another interesting opportunity (for using the machine shop) back and forth through emails with a friend. You may know that I am a long time (40+ years) Amateur Radio enthusiast. There is an area in UHF and SHF radio type activity that could use the skills of a machinist. The microwave bands use very short wavelengths measured in inches or less. The radio generation, amplification and transmission equipment is not made like High Frequency equipment. There are NOT a lot of wires and discrete components connected together in a loose arrangement. That just doesn’t work at microwaves. Many parts are actually machined from solid metal and use extremely precise dimensions in cavities and rod length and other very mechanical contraptions. Metal patterns on circuit boards become active radiation components just from their shape and location.

I have a fair idea how all this works but I am certainly not a designer.  But I think I can make these kinds of metal parts and circuits with the right drawing. All I need is someone to offer me a part to make. It is just an informal discussion for now but it has piqued my interest as a workshop project.

 

Here is a wood plate I made for a family friend. You can see the original in one of the pictures. It was used with a statue of a bulldog holding the plate like a butler or waiter (really).

It was given to me before I started the  HB2 project but I did have the Vectric software (but before Aspire). I knew I could make it but not with the smaller Taig mill I was using at the time.

Two of the photos are renderings in Aspire (software) where I designed the plate. Simple, yes but that is all that was desired. Aspire generated the G-code that was used in MACH 3 to operate the HB2. Aspire can be made to do 3D Carve type work if the user plans it well. 3D Carve is another Vectric program.

The board seen in the photos is 12″ x 12″ x .75″ and is Poplar. I was thinking of MDF but couldn’t find it in small quantities. I searched other materials and found 12 inch wide poplar. It is a light wood but fairly stable. I deliberately choose a board that was laminated from several strips.  I figure that will help reduce warpage of the thin plate. It kind of looks nice too.

The client will finish the plate and can do what she wants. You can see the original was kind of ugly (just my opinion) and was just painted over something composite like Corian. (That is why I considered MDF first.)

Bottom line, if I can draw it I can make it. Cut time was just over 2 hours but not optimized since it is a one-off project.